Italian white grape variety grown in the North of Italy. Its best expression is found in Gavi where it produces crisp, clean mineral driven wines.
Cortese is known and admired for its simple, predictable floral and citrus notes. Not a particularly aromatic grape, it is still capable of being expressive, with grass, lemon, white peach, and almonds being common. Interaction with less will impart some brioche and biscuit notes, while the handful of producers using Cortese with oak are in search of sweeter vanilla notes.
Amongst quality-focused producers, Cortese is benefiting from increased time on the lees before bottling. The result is a creamier texture and more complex flavours. As winemakers continue to experiment with this style, and find new markets for it, I expect the perception of Gavi as a simple but reliable white wine to be challenged. You can read more of my thoughts on this here.
Beyond the Gavi appellation, there is very little movement. The handful of producers using it in Alto Monferrato and the Colli Tortonesi are utilising it as a simple white wine to compliment other flagship wines.
Those seeking to get a better understanding of Cortese need look no further than Gavi in Piedmont. At the bottom end of the price spectrum quality varies and wines can be insipid. The appellation's two big names, La Scolca and Broglia produce outstanding flagship wines and these can be considered the most accessible benchmark references. With lower volumes, but outstanding expressions of Cortese, is Francesca Poggio's wines at Il Poggio. They are fresh, authentic and exceptional value for money.
